Mall Madness, Manga Dua, Soekarno-Hatta Airport, Terima Kasih Indonesia! (Day 3)

I only had a few hours left in Indonesia so I decided to check-out early and get a head start on the day.  Fittingly, the first mall I visited was Sarinah Department Store, the oldest mall in Jakarta.  Despite being a little long in the tooth, Sarinah is still a favorite among Indonesian mall goers.  It is a good place to buy souvenirs as there are floors dedicated to goods like batik, handicrafts and jewelry from all parts of the country.  The prices are a bit high compared to street vendors but the products sold in Sarinah are of better quality and guaranteed authentic.  There's also also a Mcdonalds & Chilis restaurant if you're hungry.  Across the street is a Lotus Department Store selling clothes and footwear.

To get here, take the BRT to the Sarinah stop, the mall is conveniently linked to the station.  From here, the bigger malls are an easy 7 minute walk away.

Sarinah Mall

Since I couldn't get enough of Grand Indonesia, I returned to have lunch at a Japanese restaurant that caught my eye the day before, Tairyo.  I tried their lunch buffet which is a bargain at IDR 129,000.  You select from a menu offering an assortment of sushis, tempura, soba, yakiniku, and fried rice which a chef then cooks right in front of you serving the food hot and fresh.  Drinks are also included and there's a generous selection which includes fresh fruit shakes, sodas, ice cream shakes and beers.  To cap it off, you have several dessert choices like fruits, cakes and sweet pastries.

If only every buffet was like this.  Top quality fresh food, a wide array of dishes, excellent staff service and reasonable prices, I was living the dream!  I had a couple of fruit shakes, a couple of milkshakes, a fruit juice and coffee to go along with shrimp tempura, Japanese fried rice, various other seafood, and countless meat.  I was so full after finishing, that I was seriously considering not eating until the next day!  I'm a big fan of buffets and though there are bigger buffets that serve better tasting food, Tairyo offers one of the best value for money, maybe even the best among them all.

Ayos dito, puedeng ulit-ulitin

Good job chef, keep em coming!

Finish strong!

For that special someone back home, bring home this expensive coffee from here

Barely being able to walk with a bulging stomach, I went to south of Jakarta where a couple of malls were located starting with the FX Lifestyle Center in Sudirman.  A mall mainly catered to the middle class, FX's claim to fame is the Atmosfear, the world's longest & fastest indoor dry slider stretching from the ground floor to the 7th floor.  Viewed from the top floor, the slide is an intimidating sight with its steep plunges and glass bottom.  It's an adrenaline inducing descent where you have no control of your fall.  It only takes a few seconds from the top to reach the ground.  A single ride would set you back for a whopping IDR 100,000.

Aside from the Atmosfear, the mall also has the usual fashion shops, food court and dinning establishments.  Above the shopping mall, is an apartment building and the Harris Hotel.

The only thing that's worth a visit here is the giant slide.  The shops are inferior to those in the bigger malls, but on the other hand, you'll have a peaceful shopping experience as there are relatively few shoppers here.

To get here, ride the BRT Line 1 to Gelora Bung Karno.  The mall is right beside the BRT station.

Long queues at the BRT during rush hour

This snake is a lot scarier in the flesh

Sports complex besides FX Mall

After a long walk, I finally reached my next destination, the posh and brand new mall called Senayan City. It is a high-end shopping mall with many exclusive brands, a Sogo department store, Debenhams, Best Denki, a cinema, a supermarket and food outlets that would have looked appealing had I not been too full. A tower occupied by SCTV, a Sofitel and a residential building can also be found in Senayan City.

I was running out of time so I only saw a little of Senayan City.  From my brief time spent there, I noticed a spacious, extravagant mall with a lot of interesting stores to check out.  The mall shows promise and I will definitely allot more time if I ever return.

To get here upon exiting the FX Mall at Jalan Sudirman, turn right and walk for 10 minutes until you reach the Youth Spirit monument at the roundabout.  At the roundabout, turn right again to Jalan Asia Africa where you'll already see Senayan City and reach it within 3 minutes.

Senayan City

Bakit kahit san bansa ako pumunta may Sogo?

I had already bought fancy souvenirs and goodies, but now it was time to go to Jakarta's bargain center and cheap shopping haven at Mangga Dua.  Jalan Mangga Dua is one of the most crowded areas in Jakarta with at least six shopping malls by my count selling both wholesale and retail with emphasis on clothes and electronics.  It's a busy, dirty and populated area where traffic is endless, where people walk in all directions and where you'll be pushing, shoving and dodging your way past everyone and everything.  Be alert and on your wits at all times.

I started with Mangga Dua Square where I was able to buy cheap Indonesian t-shirts to bring home.  Most of the stalls here seem to be selling the same items so I just looked around, inquired and haggled my way to the lowest offers.  Entire floors are devoted to fashion wear with a few Indonesian antique shops spread out.  There's also a food court in the basement and some fast food restaurants near the entrances.

Next, I crossed the street to WTC Mangga Dua one of the more complete and orderly (sort of) looking shopping centers in the area.  Apart from selling the items available at Mangga Dua Square, I also saw stalls with electronic devices, pirated cds and  video games.  There's also more product variety here and you can even choose which quality of cheap t-shirt to buy!

Lastly, I went to Pasar Pagi Mangga Dua.  This is where you'll feel SEA's most populous nation in full effect.  With stalls just inches apart from each other and seemingly endless number of people packed like sardines, I could hardly move inside.  If you can stand the heat, tight spaces and slow moving traffic, then Pasar Pagi is the place to find fake designer bags, native handicrafts, cheap accessories and other fashion items which cost almost free!

To get to Mangga Dua, take the BRT Line 1 to Harmoni Sentral then switch to Line 2 to Senen.  Switch again, this time to Line 5 to Mangga Dua Square station.  This will drop you off in front of the many malls of Mangga Dua.

Mangga Dua Square

What a Blue Bird Taxi should look 

Pasar  Pagi: Para sa mga mahilig sa Divisoria, magsasawa kayo dito

For my last meal in Indonesia, I walked from my hotel to nearby Samarra Restaurant.  It's a pricey, dinning place / bar serving Indonesian and Middle-Eastern cuisine.  The first floor is a hangout spot while dinners are hosted in the second floor.  The place is dark and quiet, filled with cool ornaments and Islamic decorations.  I was the only one eating at the time, and it even felt a little spooky when the waiter left as there was no people around.

I didn't know what got into me but I ordered a Lebanese dish which I wasn't really familiar with and the result was a disaster.  It was like chicken & veggies corned beef with a taste that my palate  strongly rejected.  I was only able to finish 1/4 of the dish before giving up, and leaving the restaurant, half embarased by my ignorance.

Lonely Planet got this wrong, not recommended

WTF?

I reached Soekarno-Hatta Airport, Terminal 2 earlier than expected because luckily, I didn't encounter any traffic.  Although I've heard horror stories about how corrupt customs and airport officials are in Indonesia, I didn't encounter any problems.  I paid the international departure tax of IDR 150,000 at the check-in counter then cleared the immigration smoothly.  Having a lot more free time, I was able to wander a bit.

Named after it's famous leader Soekarno and then Vice President Hatta, the airport located in Cengkareng, has 3 terminals one which is used by local airlines (Lion, Batavia) one for international airlines (PAL, CEB) and one for low cost domestic airlines (Air Asia).  It's an old airport, but one that's well maintained, and constantly under renovation.  From the outside, it's easy to admire the structure which's design was inspired by a traditional Javanese house. They've also incorporated Indonesian elements to the airport's interiors and despite being a very busy airport, it's one of the most orderly and efficient ones I've been to.  There are two hotels inside the airport and the Tune Hotels LCCT is nearby for those on a budget.  Sleeping on the airport benches seem relatively safe as I saw a lot of passengers do it, if a bit uncomfortable.  Other facilities include several fast food restaurants, lounges, money changers and shopping stores.  The management is already baring plans of expansion and improvement.  Terminal 4 is about to open up and a rail connecting the airport to the city is being planned.

To get to the airport, take a taxi to Gambir Station, then switch to a Damri Bus which goes straight into the airport for IDR 20,000.  Travel time takes around 60 minutes or so under moderate traffic.  The bus operates from 4 am to 7 pm only, so  if you go past that, you have to take the taxi.

If you are traveling to Soekarno-Hatta Airport from outside Jakarta (i.e. Bogor, Bandung), you may consider arranging a private / direct car transfer at very affordable rates with Jakarta Airport Transfer.

Inside Terminal 2

Last minute shopping

I hate goodbyes

The Day's Expenses (P): 

Transportation         900

Departure Tax         700
Food                    1,000  

Shopping                ?      

Total P 2,600

I've now reached the end of my trip in Indonesia.  I started out with the wrong impressions, but as I've come to know the country for real, I've seen many beautiful sights and a rich & vibrant culture.  The temples of Prambanan and Borobudur are national treasures, both inspiring and spectacular.  The cities of Jakarta and Yogyakarta are a contrast with the former being a loud, modern, populated city of rich and poor dominated by money-making sky scrappers while the latter is a throwback of old houses and walled cities where tradition is still alive and the outside world comes to a standstill.

These are people who are no different from me and who I have more in common with, which only being here makes me realize.  Just like them, my people and I can relate to the feeling of being much maligned, prejudged and being looked down upon.  Most people from the outside can't see the good traits and values that these people possess like hospitality, respectfulness, sacrifice and contentment with life, but I did, and you will too if you interact with them.

I will remember my experiences: going solo for the first time, losing my luggage, boarding the wrong train, taking my first overnight sleeper train, barely squeezing in a packed BRT, seeing Borobudur & Prambanan for the first time, eating Gudeg and meeting a lot of interesting people along the way.  None of these would have been possible if not for that random, unexplainable moment in front of my computer, which became one of the best decisions in my life.

This concludes my Indonesia blog series, til next time.  I'l be waiting for your comments. Salamat.

Helpful Links:

Wikitravel Yogyakarta
Wikitravel Jakarta