Java...Prambanan, Borobudur, and Yogyakarta (Day 1)

Java: My First Solo Adventure / Spectacular Sights All Around

Spontaneous, not part of the plan, unexpected yet somehow ends in amazement.  The Piso Sale had me in a panicked frenzy as I swiped my credit card away to my target destinations.  The craziness resulted in one random moment (which I still I can't explain), where I suddenly had the overwhelming urge to go to Indonesia, alone, without any prior research, and so I made it happen and arranged my one-on-one appointment with Southeast Asia's Sleeping Giant!

After reading a bit about the country, I arranged an itinerary that would maximize my sightseeing and included the highlights of Java, the region of my fascination.  The plan was to fly early from Jakarta to see the magnificent sights of Borobudur & Prambanan then experience Yogyakarta's rich culture and finally get back to Jakarta in the morning via overnight train, all within 24 hours.  And if everything goes right (or wrong), my first solo backpacking experience will be something I'd never forget!

Highlights of Java

I arrived at Soekarno-Hatta Airport in Jakarta, just before midnight, welcomed by a pleasant February climate.  I cleared immigration swiftly as Filipinos can enter Indonesia for 30 days free of charge.  At the arrival area is a 24-hour forex offering poor rates but I exchanged some money anyways to pay for my transportation and upcoming day in Yogyakarta ("Jogja" for short).  Banks found in Jakarta's shopping malls offer better rates and that is where you should change most of your money.

During the wee hours of the night, only the money changer was open, so my review of the airport will be on my return, for now, I had to get to Terminal 3 where my Air Asia plane will be departing.  To get from Terminal 2 to 3 you can take: (a) the free shuttle bus circling the terminals or (b) the taxi for IDR 30,000.  Because it was midnight, I was forced into taking the taxi, which only took 3 minutes to get there.  You should look for a "Blue Bird Taxi", the only reputable company in Jakarta.  As I reached their counter at the arrivals hall, unfortunately, they had no taxi available so I settled into haggling with one of the taxi touts for IDR 40,000.  Now you maybe wondering how such a short distance costs a lot of rupiah, well the reason is that at least half of the amount you pay goes to a parking fee which is paid every time, even if a taxi just drops off passengers at the terminal.  I think it's a ridiculous fee imposed by a shady parking management.

Soekarno-Hatta Airport Terminal 2

Also called the Low Cost  Carrier Terminal, Terminal 3, is a new and modern airport used mainly for domestic flights by budget carriers.  It was still closed when I got there, so I just waited on the arrival area outside while inhaling second-hand smoke from cigarette worshipers.  Around 4 am, they began to let people in and I got to say, the interiors were impressive, not low cost at all.  The airport was clean, bright and cool and everything looked orderly.  On the 2nd floor were shops and restaurants I was used to seeing in bigger airports, there's even a spacious waiting area for passengers.  Also, a quick note to all, there is a departure tax for domestic flights of IDR 35,000 payable at the check-in counters.  Around 5:30 am, we were called for boarding, although the announcement was only in Bahasa so I had to confirm with the flight staff.

LCCT aka Terminal 3

Walang puyat puyat maski walang tulog!

Satay w/ rice meal in-flight, very good!

The plane arrived at Adisucipto Airport in Yogyakarta around 7 am and so began my misadventures.  It's a really small airport, with basic facilities but one that handles heavy passenger traffic daily.  I was used to picking up my baggage at a conveyor belt upon arrival but here, you were supposed to claim it at the plane storage, immediately after getting down the ramp.  As all the signs and announcements were in Bahasa, I mistakenly waited for my bag from a conveyor belt of a different flight!  After about an hour of waiting and seeing everyone else claim their bags, I was starting to get nervous, luckily, my local contact, Chris, arrived early and was able to help me by going to the airline's office and explaining my problem.  That's when he told me of my mistake, fortunately, the airline kept the bag, and I was able to retrieve it from them.

If you'll be staying in Jogja, you can: (a) walk to the airport parking lot then take the Trans Jogja Bus for IDR 3,500 to the Malioboro stop then walk or take a short taxi ride to your hotel or (b) arrange for a hotel pick-up or (c) take a 20-minute prepaid taxi ride to your hotel from the Blue Bird Counter outside the arrivals area for IDR 50,000.

Trans Jogja works like the subway, but using buses. These buses run on special lanes, only stop at designated bus stops and are located at elevated bus stations.  Each ride costs a fixed amount of IDR 3,500. 

Adisucipto Airport

Trans Jogja Bus Station

Because I wanted to spend my lone day as efficiently as I could, a month ago, I searched online for different tour operators to see if there was anything that would satisfy my requirement and fit my budget at the same time.  I picked Lestari Travel as they offered the best deal among the tour operators.  For IDR 325,000, they provided me with a van, a driver/guide, covered parking fees, gas, and pick-up service for 12 hours.  While I would still recommend DIY travel as it's a better experience and cheaper, I had a really tight schedule and had a train to catch later, so the car was better suited to accomplish my objectives.

The car that toured me around

My driver for the day, Chris

My first agenda, was a visit to the Prambanan Temples.  Entry for a foreigner costs significantly higher than for locals at IDR 162,000.  Hiring a guide will cost an additional IDR 75,000.  Also, the complex is open from 6 am to 6 pm.  A UNESCO World Heritage Site, these Hindu temples form a stunning collection of pointed sculptures inside a wide, expansive park.  It is the largest Hindu temple complex in the world.  Inside are three main temples dedicated to Gods: Vishnu (north), Bhrama (south) and Shiva (center and largest temple).  Surrounding these are smaller temples of religious significance and ruins from many other temples originally built here.  There's also the small and rudimentary Prambanan Museum, free of entry.

A few kilometers walk past the main temples will lead you to three different Buddhist temples, Candi Lumbung & Candi Bubrah  (both which lie in ruins) and Candi Sewu with its 240 plus (mostly destroyed) temples and an imposing central temple.  I also passed by other temples which were either under renovation, in bad condition or in shambles.  I highly recommend renting a bicycle which only costs IDR 20,000  available inside the park to save time and energy.  Trust me, you will get tired and sweaty covering everything the park has to offer on foot, plus it's more fun riding a bike!

If your visit coincides and you have the time to spare, there's also a Ramayana Ballet held in the evenings of certain months at Prambanan.  Chris gave glowing recommendations of it and I've also heard around the net that it's quite a spectacle.

I couldn't have asked for a more perfect start than early mornings at Prambanan.  You could count by hand the number of people in the whole complex creating for a calm and sacred feel and a temple all to myself.  Prambanan is not your average tourist sight as you will instantly be hit upon arrival by it's grandeur and how it's a deeply spiritual place.  Without the maddening crowd, I was in no hurry, fully soaking in every detail and serenity that the temple had to offer.  I inspected every structure, appreciating the intricate carvings ingrained in each one, and noticing that each one had a purpose, each had a story to tell. The three major temples formed perfect symmetry and you will get rewarded with climbing them as there are relics surrounding the temples and inside.  Statues, mystical figures and rubble are scattered all across the compound and you'd easily spend a large chunk of time covering it all.  I walked past rows of ruins, thinking to myself, if this place still looked beautiful today, I wonder how much better it was during it's heyday!

Although often overlooked, Prambanan is a beautiful expression of religious devotion, an enduring testament as to what man can achieve if driven by commitment and belief.  In my opinion, Prambanan easily trumps most of the main tourist attractions in other places I've been to, but it just had the unfortunate luck of being in the same place as Borobudur, but make no mistake about it, Prambanan stands on it's own and is a must visit!

To get here from Yogyakarta, go to the Trans Jogja Bus Station in the middle of Malioboro street and  take Trans Jogja Bus 1A-Prambanan which takes 30 minutes and costs IDR 3,000.  The temple is easily reached within a few minutes walk from the Prambanan bus stop.

Sarap pala ng pakiramdam pag ikaw lang mag-isa!

Can you make out the hidden face?

Perfection

Obscured beauty

Even the wreckage is fascinating

Scary or cute?

I'm on a natural high after my visit to Prambanan and had big expectations as my next destination was supposed to be even better.  I was skeptical but hopeful (If that makes any sense).  After an hour and a half more drive, around lunch time, amidst the sweltering heat and feeling a little hungry, I reached the world famous Borobudur.  Entrance to Indonesia's star attraction would cost a foreigner IDR 190,000 and it's open from 6 am to 5 pm.  You are required to wear a sarong for religious purposes although I don't think it's strictly enforced. When I got there, there were already hordes of tourists, which in no way should discourage you from visiting, as any time you see one of the great ancient sites of the world is a good time. You're just not seeing Borobudur at it's best.  If I'd ever return here, I would take the expensive but well worth Sunrise Tour offered by Manohara Hotel for IDR 320,000 which allows you to enter the temple around 4:30 am before everyone else arrives.

I will spare you the geeky details about the temple and try to give a brief description of Borobudur as simply as I know about it.  Borobudur is the largest Buddhist monument in the world, it's like a wide, over sized shopping mall with 6 floors set on top of a hill and overlooking an active volcano (Mt. Merapi).  The top floor has a giant stupa surrounded by an army of junior stupas with Buddha statues on police patrol.  The middle floors are cinemas showing the life and teachings of Buddha through wall reliefs, while the ground floor is filled up by more celestial statues and smaller Buddhas and stupas.

Borobudur is a special sight, it will be one of the most spectacular things you'll ever see in your life, the sheer size overwhelms upon first sight.  Each of the six terraces contain delicate, old carvings which can be easily appreciated by anyone.  I'm not too familiar with Buddhism but I gained a better understanding of the steps to nirvana (enlightenment), karma, and the Buddha's different postures just by exploring and observing the engravings on each platform.  Also, if you're lucky, you maybe rewarded by a glimpse of the majestic Mount Merapi once you reach the peak of the structure.  The volcano was just slightly visible during my visit but seeing it serve as a backdrop to the central stupa and smaller stupas still made for a dramatic view.

One last thing you should do, is put your hands inside a stupa on the top platform and try to touch the Buddha inside.  Supposedly, good karma will fall on you for reaching the highest part of the temple and paying respect to Buddha.

Borobudur ranks among one of the best places I've been to, and is a sight I wholeheartedly recommend to all travelers.  I still wonder how this was ever done, what kind of dedication and labor force it took, and where the inspiration for such a complicated design came.  It's an inspiring reminder of what an ancient civilization was able to produce during their days.  If you're ever unsure about going to Indonesia, let me tell you that Borobudur alone makes it worth the travel.

To get here, take the Trans Jogja Bus 2A-Jombor which takes 20 minutes and costs IDR 3,000.  Once the bus stops at Jombor Terminal, switch to another bus which goes straight to Borobudur taking 90 minutes and costing IDR 20,000.

Over tourism?

Borobudur: One of the great wonders of the world

Buddha's teachings and story through stone carvings

Wah!

You HAVE to see this in person

Around Borobudur Park, are two museums which I didn't get to visit because I was too preoccupied basking in all of Borobudur's beauty.  Immediately visible outside the park, are souvenir shops and food stalls set-up conveniently for tourists.  I browsed through some stalls quickly, and there were nice souvenirs to be had but as in anywhere with these types of shops, be prepared to haggle.

Souvenir market just outside Borobudur

It was already way past lunch time when I finished my Borobudur exploration and I really didn't know any place to eat in Jogja so I asked Chris, my driver, to recommend a place.  He took me to a nice, expensive looking restaurant that also sells Indonesian handicrafts, how convenient!  Right then I knew that this was one of those mandatory tourist traps, but I was already there so I decided to just ride along.  After a quick tour of the souvenir shop without buying anything, I finally had my lunch in their restaurant.  The food were overpriced and my blue marlin meal didn't taste good but my other order, the lumpia gudeg, was fantastic.  It consisted of chicken, beef and veggies mixed in a spring roll, fried then dipped in sambal and a peanut butter like sauce.  It was sweet, salt and spicy goodness, and the saving grace of my meal, so the place wasn't a total scam.

Lumpia Gudeg, sobrang sarap!

This tuna, well.... not so good

The sun was setting when I got back to the city and after purchasing my train ticket leaving for Jakarta 10 pm, Chris and I parted ways at the Tugu train station.  Chris was a nice guy, he helped me sort out a few things, shared lots of useful information and stories, and was great company throughout the day.  He was my first friend in Indonesia, but as with most people you meet on travel, you eventually go your separate ways in a matter of days or hours.  I still had a few hours to spare so I deposited my bags (IDR 1,000 per hour?) in the train station and decided to explore the city on foot.

Although a small city, Yogyakarta is the cultural capital of Indonesia.  It would take a whole day or more to explore everything it has to offer, and my few hours spent there only gave me a small dose of its charm. I mainly walked through Malioboro Street where the heart of the shopping and action happens.  Things to buy would include traditional clothing like batik, Jogja T-shirts and tourist souvenirs like magnets, miniature figurines and key chains.  Trying out their food wouldn't hurt although gudeg is the only one my picky palate can take. Then there's the street side activity where I passed by people dressed up in weird costumes, and families enjoying the feria (local amusement park) located near the entrance of the Sultan's Complex.

Just by looking at native styled houses, the row of shops selling souvenir, the becak (trishaw), the andong (horse carriage) and how many of the people seem to be wearing batik, you could tell that Yogyakarta is a city rich in tradition and full of pride.  It reminds of provincial plazas back home, straightforward, unaffected by modernization, but unlike there, Jogja is constantly in a chaotic pace.  I wish I had more time here, so I really can't give a fair verdict on the city yet, and definitely plan to go back.

The busy streets of Malioboro

Inside Malioboro Mall

Indonesia's own donuts J.Co

Serangan Umum 1 Maret Monument

After heading back to Tugu Station, I picked up my luggage, took a seat and waited for the sleeper train to arrive.  As the minutes passed over my train's scheduled arrival, I started to get uneasy.  The train announcements were in Bahasa only, so I showed my ticket to some of the locals. I asked if I was supposed to board an incoming train as 30 minutes had already pass the scheduled arrival time, I believe they said yes...  To cut the long story short, words got lost in translation and I boarded the wrong train, and I didn't realize it!  Luckily, I made a friend of my Indonesian seat mate and as we made small talk the one of the questions he asked me was where I was going.  It was then that I found out that this train was headed to Bandung!  As the usher led me to the employee's area to fix the situation, I felt sick, I was getting nervous, I was now lost for real!  In English I could barely understood, the train conductor told me that I would be dropped off in a station where both of the trains will pass.  After hours of inhaling a year's worth of smoke from the employees, I got down the train to some station where I waited a few minutes before I was boarded at my real train.  It was already 3 am in the morning and the other passengers were already asleep, and quickly, so did I, passing out of exhaustion and adventure.

To get to Jakarta from Yogyakarta, buy a train ticket at Tugu Station costing IDR 350,000 taking 8 hours.  There are daily trips and overnight trains are available.  The seats are reclining and water, pillows and blanket are provided in executive trains.  Most importantly, MAKE SURE YOU BOARD THE RIGHT TRAIN!

Tugu Train Station

The Day's Expenses (P): 

Car & Driver        1,900

Entrance Fees       1,200

Food                    1,000  

Shopping                ?

Total P 4,100