Seoul: The 4 K's & More Reasons to Go
Kimchi. K-Pop. Koreanovelas. Korean War. These 4 K's were pretty much all I knew about Korea prior to my visit. Kimchi is the Korean staple food found in Korean restaurants everywhere. Who doesn't know the names Psy, Rain, Girls Generation and Bae Yong Jun? They are some of the products of Korean media that are fast gaining an international fanbase. Then there's the never ending tension between North and South Korea, an almost monthly headline at CNN.
On the travel scene, Korea has been in the shadows of other Asian countries and probably won't make it to the top of the list of must visits in the continent. I wanted to know if there was more to Korea than the 4 K's and if I could find a legitimate travel reason for visiting. Fast forward to the next piso fare, and soon, I was about to get answers as I got to explore Korea's capital and surrounding areas for almost a week.
On the travel scene, Korea has been in the shadows of other Asian countries and probably won't make it to the top of the list of must visits in the continent. I wanted to know if there was more to Korea than the 4 K's and if I could find a legitimate travel reason for visiting. Fast forward to the next piso fare, and soon, I was about to get answers as I got to explore Korea's capital and surrounding areas for almost a week.
Seoul is one of the major league cities in Asia and although it hasn't been as widely covered like neighbors Tokyo or Beijing, it has been steadily on the rise and fast gaining serious tourist attention. Seoul has been one of those lesser known travel cities just waiting for everyone to unveil her secrets. The city packs quite a punch offering many things like a tour of the 5 grand palaces, endless shopping in Myeongdong and Dongdaemun, burning hot Korean cuisine, the world's fastest internet and of course, meeting the Koreans themselves who are fashion conscious yet deeply rooted in tradition, who proudly welcome guests to their city and have been a huge influence on the world's social culture. I come to Seoul searching for the familiar, not really knowing what to expect but open for everything she throws my way.
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| My Reasons to go to Korea |
Before arriving in Seoul, it is important to note that visa is required for Filipinos. They say it's one of the hardest to obtian, but in our case, we just made sure to submit complete requirements and thankfully, it worked. There are no interviews and no need to give astronomical financial statements. There's also no need to go to an agency, you can submit your requirements at the Korean embassy yourself. The requirements can be found here. For stays of 59 days or less, visa is free.
This was a family trip of 4 during the end of winter in April 2012 and we arrived at Incheon International Airport close to 9 pm. Since it was already late, we only had time for dinner and weren't able to look around the airport (Airport review in Part 5). We ate at one of the local fast food outlets near the arrival hall (forgot the name, in Korean). Food was decent and fairly priced but nothing special. Afterwards we headed to the city straight to our hotel for a much needed sleep.
From Incheon Airport it takes 1 hour and 20 minutes to get to the city under normal traffic. There are three options available: (a) by AREX train, cheapest, costs around 5,000 won; (b) by limousine bus, most convenient, around 10,000 won; and (c) by taxi, fastest, around 100,000 won.
We would be staying in the Myeongdong area (recommended for first timers) at Nana Residence and carrying 4 heavy luggage so the limousine bus was an easy choice. We took the last trip scheduled 10:50 pm on Bus # 6015 bound for Myeongdong which stops at several areas and hotels. To get to Nana Residence, take bus # 6015 and get off at the last stop which is Sejong Hotel (Nana Residence is actually right at the back of Sejong Hotel). Beside it is a Ministop Convenience which leads to an alley. Turn right into the alley and walk 2 minutes until you reach the intersection. Turn right again and walk to the J & S Building which is the 3rd or 4th building you'll pass on the right hand side. Nana Residence is on the 5th to 7th floor of the J & S Building.
If you don't mind hauling your bags through steep stairs (most of the major stops don't have escalators) while mixing it up with local commuters then the AREX could save you some money. Taking the taxi is just crazy spending.
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| Masarap maski puro gulay |
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| Bus Stop outside the airport to Myeongdong |
Nana Residence is not a hotel, it's a guesthouse and it was my first time in one. We booked 2 double rooms which costs around 95,000 won each per night. Reservations can only be done through their website. Let me begin by saying that these are the smallest rooms I've ever seen, the bed was literally connected to the walls. There is very limited space to move around; let alone place your baggage. The toilet, sink and shower are joined in a single, tiny space so whenever you take a bath, the whole floor gets wet. Amenities are bare to the definition with only soap, shampoo and towel provided.
The saving grace for Nana is the location as it's only 3 minutes walk to the subway and airport bus, 5 minutes walk to the heart of Myeongdong and surrounded by restaurants, cafes and convenience stores. Other perks include free wifi (fastest hotel internet ever), a mini fridge, TV, all day supply of free water and daily free breakfast of juice, milk, coffee, eggs, bread and cup noodles. The staff speak limited English, but were friendly and eager to help.
To conclude, I wouldn't mind staying at Nana Residence again if I'm on a tight budget given the cheap price (based on Seoul standards) and excellent location. However, I would look for better options first or spend a little more for better comfort.
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| Nana Residence (left, narrow entrance) |
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| Every shower = flooding |
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| "Grand" Lobby |
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| Common kitchen / breakfast area |
On our first morning in Seoul, we were scheduled to meet with Mrs. Kim Hye Wan, a volunteer guide from the Korea Tourism Organization. The Korean government runs a goodwill guide service through their website wherein foreign visitors can spend a day with locals for sightseeing, travel assistance and cultural exchange. The service is free but you have to pay for the guide's travel expenses like food, admission tickets and transportation for the day.
Around 10:30 am we met Mrs Hye Wan at the entrance of Changdeokgung Palace. The Changdeokgung Palace is one of the five palaces located in Seoul inherited from the Joseon Dynasty. It was the second one built, a favorite of kings and currently the most well preserved among the five. There are two separate admission fees at Changdeokgung, 3,000 won for the palace and another 5,000 won to see the secret garden. An integrated admission ticket to see the 5 palaces, the secret garden and the Jongmyo Shrine is offered for only 10,000 won. This is valid for a month and a cheaper option if you will visit most of these sights.
We started with Changdeokgung Palace itself where you have the option to go on your own or join the free tour. We opted to join the English tour which takes about an hour. It was raining and freezing in Seoul and I've never felt colder. I found it very hard to concentrate on the tour due to the weather, the guide's difficult to understand English and from the tour's brisk pace. Nonetheless, what jumped out about the palace for me were the beautiful landscape and wide grounds and pathways. Other memorable sites included the Daejojeon, Injeongjeon Main Hall and the Donhwamun Gate.
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| The entrance grounds at Changdeokgung |
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| If only if it wasn't so damn cold! |
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| Injeongjeon Main Hall |
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| Throne Hall |
After finishing with the palace tour, our socks were already soaking wet and we were shivering from head to toe. We decided however to grit it out and take the next tour, one which leads to the Secret Garden. Also called Biwon or Huwon, the Secret Garden used to be the resting place of Kings and entry was allowed only to a select few. Located deep inside the palace complex, getting to the secret garden requires a challenging walk (sometimes uphill). To further complicate, the cold weather definitely didn't help. On our way to the gardens we passed by the emperor's library, some gorgeous pavilions and a beautiful pond. Unfortunately, most of the trees were devoid of leaves for me to fully appreciate the place. Come to think of it, it makes no sense visiting a bare garden. Anyways, I did find beauty in the overall arrangement and peaceful atmosphere it exuded. Changdeokgung is an important reminder of the past in the middle of an ever progressing city, I just wished my visit came in spring or autumn, then maybe it would have been special.
To get to Changdeokgung, take the subway to Anguk station then take Exit 3 and walk straight for 3 minutes until you reach the Palace gates which you won't miss.
Getting around Seoul is quite easy thanks to a very efficient and comprehensive subway system. Almost all the major sites are covered and fares usually cost around 1,500 won. They also have a T-Money Card which is a prepaid card (similar to other countries) used for trains and buses. It's convenient and gets you a little discount on fares. You can buy it at convenience stores or train stations.
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| Challenging climb towards the Secret Garden |
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| Emperor's Library |
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| The "Secret" Garden |
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| Lagas... |
It was way past lunch time, and we were all very hungry, thankfully, Mrs. Hye Wan led us to Kwa Dong Ok restaurant. The menu was quite limited but that is normal in Korea where most restaurants only offer dishes they specialize in. Kwa Dong Ok makes seollongtang (Beef Bone Soup) for a living and it was easy to taste why. We all ordered seollongtang and over-sized mandoo (Korean gyoza) to go along with the unlimited free rice and kimchi. I liked the milky beef bone soup as it was rich and creamy, and perfectly compliments the rice. The Korean gyozas were also flavorful, a mixture of minced meat and fresh greens. The bill came out reasonable in the mid-range price level with our satisfaction fully met.
To get to Kwa Dong Ok from the Changdeokgung entrance, turn right to Changdeokgung-gil (the street right beside it) and walk for 5 minutes until you reach the first intersection (Yongsusan restaurant landmark). Take a left to Changdeokgung-1 gil and walk for 3 minutes. The restaurant is on the right side just three blocks before the next intersection.
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| Kwa Dong Ok restaurant |
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| Perfect meal for the cold weather |
With our stomachs full, Mrs. Hye Wan led us along a mix of trendy and traditional establishments at Bukchon and Samcheongdong on our way to our next stop, the National Folk Museum of Korea. The museum has 2 things going for it, it's free and indoors. But on a serious note, the museum shows Korean history and daily life through artifacts, replicas and printings. There are free guided tours in English at certain hours. Inside the beautiful 3-layered main building you'll be able to learn about different periods of Korean history, famous festivals and ceremonies and gain a better understanding of Korean culture. Traditional items used by locals are also on display as well as cute caricatures of native delicacies and life-sized figurines depicting special Korean occasions.
The Folk Museum is a well organized and highly informative museum. The artifacts have English description, the displays are decent and the content honestly, are quite interesting. It also holds a fairly large number of exhibits which could possibly keep you occupied for a long time. As with most museums though, the average visitor is bound to get bored at some point but I think there are more stuff here that might hold your attention a little longer.
To get here from Kwa Dong Ok restaurant, keep walking straight for 3 minutes to the direction of Bukchon-4gil until you reach the intersection. At the intersection, head middle to Bukchon-5 gil from where it's a 10 minute walk which will leads you to the Folk Museum at the end of the road.
Alternatively, take the subway to Gyeongbukgung station exit 5 then walk straight for 3 minutes. Turn left at Samcheongdong and walk for 10 minutes until you reach the Folk Museum. A further note, the Folk Museum is actually located inside the Gyeongbukgung Palace Complex so you could include that in your visit, we just chose to visit the palace at a later because my dad wasn't feeling well.
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| National Folk Museum |
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| Traditional hanoks |
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| Gusto ko kumuha isa |
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| Life sized |
We were supposed to tour the other palaces and the Jongmyo Shrine as well but my parents were not feeling well so we ended our trip with Mrs. Hye Wan a little early. Mrs. Hye Wan was an accommodating guide and real helpful. She gave us lots of tips and even accompanied to us in buying appropriate winter gloves. We were also able to learn more about Korean culture from her and got to know about her life and family. In return, we got to share our own culture and she got to know us. Again, we would like to thank Mrs. Kim Hye Wan for being our guide on that day in Seoul. We would also like to thank the Korea Tourism Organization for not only providing volunteer guides of great help to foreign visitors but also giving us a chance to make new local friends.
After a little rest back at the guesthouse, we were all recharged and ready to take on the famous district of Myeongdong. One of the main commercial areas in Seoul, Myeongdong is a can't miss place. Shopping is the name of the game with stretches of pedestrian only shopping streets, major department stores, designer brands and beauty shops in just about every corner. It covers a wide area stretching the entire length of Myeongdong station including the many side streets of Myeongdong-gil all the way up to Euljiro station. The area is always crowded and most establishments usually operate from noon up to 10 pm. Branded stores like Forever 21, Uniqlo, Ralph Lauren and LV are common sites along with edgy local fashion wear. Some of the malls to visit are Lotte Department Store (excellent food court and supermarket), Shinsegae, Myeongdong Migliore, M Plaza and Noon Square. Aside from these, cosmetic shops like The Face Shop, Etude House, Skinfood and Nature Republic to name a few are everywhere and especially popular with young Korean ladies. These shops also give out lots of freebies to entice customers to check out their stores.
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| Lotte Department Store |
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| Awesome Foodcourt / Grocery at the basement of Lotte |
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| Myeongdong |
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| Myeongdong Theater |
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| I'm male and I love night shopping?! |
An underrated part of Myeongdong is the local street food scene. When nightime falls, vendors come out with their stalls serving traditional Korean snacks and other internatonal favorites. Some of the stuff I was able to try included Korean pancake, potato dog, giant cream puff, manjoo (bun with red bean), deep fried chicken on skewers, various sausages and their version of yakitori, beef kebab, Korean pizza, soft ice cream and mochi rice cakes. I must say, most were delicious and all were surprisingly affordable (usually costs not more than 1,500 won each).
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| Suki na namin to! |
For dinner, we headed to Myeongdong Gyoja one of the most popular restaurants in Seoul. It's an old restaurant that's a hit with locals and tourists alike, in fact, they actually have two branches in Myeongdong. They specialize in guksu (chopped noodle soup) and it sure was tasty but their best dish is Korean gyoza. The pork mandu we had were the best I've ever tasted, oozing with juiciness and with the flavors bursting with every bite. Each meal came with unlimited free refills of kimchi, soup and rice. Prices were slightly expensive but we didn't mind as food was authentic and got two thumbs up from all of us. I conclude by saying it's the best restaurant we've tried in Seoul and highly recommended to all travelers.
To get to Myeongdong Gyoja, take the subway to Myeongdong Station Exit 8. Take a left to Myeongdong-10 gil and walk for 5 minutes. The restaurant is on the right side of the road opposite M Plaza (the one with the huge Forever 21 store).
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| Myeongdong Gyoja |
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| Thumbs Up |
Myeongdong ended up as my favorite among the places I visited in Seoul. I may have a little bias because we stayed in the area and had more time to explore it than others but the more I think about it, the more I know it's true. I remember every time we finished our day, I would always head out, walking it's streets while indulging on delicious finger food surrounded by the bright lights and constant activity. It also has everything I want: endless shopping, gastronomic overload, throbbing nightlife and a convenient base for transportation. In a way Myeongdong has that beating pulse, magnetic to the wandering traveler, pulling him back and makes him stay for the moment.
To get to Myeongdong, take the subway to Myeongdong station exits 5 to 10.
The Day's Expenses (P) (Per Person):
Transportation 1,650 (Airport Bus, Subway, Taxi)
Entrance Fees 450 (Including Guide's Entrance)
Food 1,750
Shopping ?
Total P 3,850
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